At Cedarcide, our all natural outdoor pest control formulas are some of our most popular products. Our outdoor pesticide concentrate, PCO Choice, and its ready-to-use counterpart, Yardsafe, both help keep your yard free of biting insects and dozens of other bugs without endangering your family, your pets or the environment.
While application of these products is rather straightforward (they’re best applied early morning or late evening, and can be used throughout your yard to kill and repel insects) there’s one issue that can complicate the process: Rain. We’re often asked questions like these:
“It rained after I used PCO Choice, do I have to apply it again?”
“It rained yesterday, can I apply Yardsafe today, or should I wait till the soil is dry?”
To simplify things, Here’s an outline of when and how to use PCO Choice and Yardsafe when rain is an issue:
Applying Before Rain
If the forecast is predicting heavy rainfall in the next 24 to 48 hours, it’s best to wait to apply PCO Choice or Yardsafeuntil after the rain has passed and the soil has adequately dried (moist soil is fine, but soil saturated with water is too wet for application). Similarly, if heavy rain occurs less than 24 to 48 hours after you’ve treated your yard, we recommend an additional application. Note: light to medium rains do not necessitate additional applications.
Applying After Rain
Let’s say it just rained, maybe a few hours ago or the day before. If the soil is dry or only slightly wet, you’re fine to apply PCO Choice or Yardsafe to your lawn. However, if the soil is muddy, saturated with water or otherwise extremely wet, it’s best to wait until the soil has had more time to dry.
Additional Guidelines For Applying PCO Choice
Using a Hose End Sprayer, it takes just 4 oz. of PCO Choice to treat up to 5000 sq. ft. of outdoor space. PCO can also be diluted down to 1:1000 for larger, agricultural use. Avoid applications during peak sun hours—early morning or late evening is best. Apply monthly or as needed.
Dilution Instructions
Dilute PCO with warm/hot water; shake to mix until milky white
For Hose End Sprayers: Add 4 oz. of PCO per 20 gallons of sprayed water (treats up to 5,000 sq. ft. of outdoor space).
For Tank Sprayers: Add 2 oz. per 1 gallon of water
PCO can be diluted down to 1:1000 for larger, agricultural use
Additional Guidelines For Applying Yardsafe
Simply hook up the Hose End Sprayer directly to the bottle, then attach it to the hose and begin spraying. Avoid applications during peak sun hours—early morning or late evening is best. Apply monthly or as needed.
At Cedarcide, we offer several pest-control solutions for both indoor and outdoor use. From concentrates to ready-to-use formulas, from personal & pet use to lawn & garden care, we have what you need to keep your home, yard and animals free of pests.
But which products are right for you? To make your shopping experience easier, we’re launching a series of blog posts to help you better understand the differences between our most popular formulas. Today we’re talking about our two all natural pet & livestock solutions: Vet’s Choice and D.A.S.
What is Vet’s Choice?
Vet’s Choice is an extra strength, all natural and highly versatile concentrate designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock. Vet’s Choice eliminates and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and dozens of other biting insects. Vet’s Choice can be mixed with water for use as a bath, spray or dip. Vet’s Choice can be used in stables, barns and kennels to reduce flying insects, or used as a treatment for mange, hot spots and other animal skin disorders.
Dilution Instructions
Dilute Vet’s Choice with warm/hot water; shake to mix until milky white
For Direct Spray: Add 4 oz. of Vet’s Choice per 1 gallon of water
For A Bath: Add 2 oz. per 1 gallon of water
For A Dip 1:200 ratio of Vet’s Choice to water
What is D.A.S?
DAS (Domestic Animal Spray) is an all natural and highly versatile solution designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock—think of it as a ready-to-use version of Vet’s Choice. Like Vet’s Choice, DAS is ideal for use in stables, barns and kennels to reduce flying insect populations, and can be used as a bath, spray or dip. DAS eliminates and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and dozens of other biting insects; it can also be used to treat mange, hot spots and other animal skin disorders.
To use: DAS works best when animals are thoroughly wetted with the product and then allowed to air dry. Apply directly to your animal’s skin or simply add it to their bath for lasting protection against pests. For additional protection and prevention, dilute DAS with water at a 3:1 ratio and apply to your pets’ bedding using a spray bottle.
How Are They Different?
DAS is simply a ready-to-use, pre-diluted version of Vet’s Choice. Vet’s Choice contains 90% cedar oil; DAS contains 3% cedar oil.
Who Should Buy Vet’s Choice? Those treating many animals—such as in agricultural use or for facilities like animal rescues—should choose Vet’s Choice because it’s concentrated, meaning it will last longer than the same amount of DAS. Vet’s Choice is also more customizable, allowing customers to dilute the solution to whatever concentration they prefer.
Who Should Buy DAS? Those looking for a quick and convenient solution to protect pets or livestock from biting insects. While Vet’s Choice will last longer because it’s concentrated, DAS is easier to use, with less need to dilute.
Carpenter ants are among the the largest ants in the United States, measuring up to 20 mm—or roughly ¾ of an inch. Most often black but sometimes red or yellow, carpenter ants live both indoors and outdoors, nesting inside moist, decaying wood (like old tree trunks, or rotting wooden boards in human structures). While they burrow and colonize inside wooden materials like termites, unlike termites, they do not consume wood. Instead, their diet is like that of other ants, consisting mostly of sweet foods and meats.
Because they do not eat wood, carpenter ants are not nearly as damaging to homes as termites. However, if given enough time, a highly developed and mature colony can cause extensive damage to nearly any wooden structure. With queens living up to 25 years, it’s not hard to imagine how costly a carpenter ant colony couble be to a homeowner. If you’re seeing these little carpenters crawling throughout your home, or looking to prevent an infestation before it takes hold, here’s 10 Tips to Get Rid of Carpenter Ants Naturally.
Prevention
Prevention is always the best form of pest control. Follow these simple guidelines to keep carpenter ants out of your home.
Keep your home clean—particularly the kitchen, flooring, windowsills and countertops. Without a food source, ants will have no reason to enter your home.
Seal all food in tightly closed containers. Keep all food storage areas free of crumbs and residues (Tip: wipe off all those jam, sauce and honey containers).
Never leave food remains or dirty dishes in the sink.
Take the trash out regularly, and keep all trash cans clean and sealed.
Any spilled food should be cleaned up immediately.
Seal any cracks, crevices and holes—all potential ant entrances—with caulk or other sealant.
Remove or remedy all sources of unnecessary moisture both inside and outside your home, including: leaky plumbing, basements, crawl spaces, A/C units, hoses, faucets, sprinklers, clogged drainage areas, etc
Remove possible nesting spaces from your yard, such as: woodpiles, wooden yard equipment, brush, dead or dying trees & tree strumps, unused dog houses, furniture, and any other possibly moist, wooden items.
Keep tree limbs and branches away from the walls of your home. Carpenter ants use these as bridges to enter your home.
Do not store lumber or firewood inside or right outside your home.
Find The Nest
The most effective methods for ridding yourself of carpenter ants all involve locating and treating their nests directly. Carpenter ants nest in moist, decaying wood. These nests can be located either inside or outside the home, and unless you actually follow the trailing ants back to their origin, it’s not always easy to determine which. However, in general, if you find carpenter ants inside your home during late winter or early spring, chances are the colony is located indoors. Here’s some tips for locating a carpenter ant colony:
Look for frass. Frass is finely ground wood debris that resembles sawdust. It’s the result of carpenter ants boring into wood to build their nests. If you see this in your home, the carpenter ants are somewhere inside.
Damaged wood on or within walls, doors, cabinets, and wood beams is a good indicator of an indoor colony. Look specifically for sandpaper-smooth carpenter ant galleries and holes.
Place attractants like dog food, jam or other sweets where you most commonly spot carpenter ants. Using their trail, attempt to find the location of their nest.
If you have woodpiles or other wooden debris inside or just outside your home, check them thoroughly—the ant colony could be inside.
Boiling Water
If you were able to find the carpenter ant nest (and it was located outdoors), this natural method is a way to attack the ant colony directly. It’s simple: boil a few liters or more of water and then pour it directly into the nest (this can be dangerous, so please exercise extreme caution). Adding a natural and water-soluble insecticide, essential oils, or soap to the boiled water will make this approach even more effective. You may have to repeat this process two to three times to completely eliminate the colony.
Sugar and Baking Soda Bait
A simple and natural carpenter ant bait can be made by mixing equal parts baking soda and powdered sugar. Strategically place this mixture in shallow dishes in the locations with the most ant traffic. These can also be placed outside, particularly near doors and windows. The sugar in the mixture attracts the ants, while the baking soda naturally kills them (for chemical reasons, baking soda is deadly to ants).
Essential Oils
Like most ants, carpenter ants use pheromone trails for navigation and communication—it’s also how they find food. Essential oils can be used to disrupt these trails, which ultimately disorients and deters ants. Lemongrass, peppermint, clove, cedarwood, tea tree, orange and lemon oil are all effective.
Dampen a cotton ball or kitchen towel with an essential oil of your choosing. Use this to wipe windowsills, baseboards, the perimeters of countertops, door frames, and any potential entry points. Repeat daily until ant population disappears. Your chosen oil can also be diluted with a carrier oil to create a natural ant-killing spray.
Soap & Water
A simple mixture of soap and water is toxic to carpenter ants. Mix one part natural dish soap to two parts water in a spray bottle. Spray as needed to kill ants and eliminate their pheromone trails. Continue to treat problem areas until the ants no longer return.
Diatomaceous Earth
Made from crushed algae fossils, Diatomaceous Earth is a well known natural pesticide. This abrasive material damages the exoskeleton of ants that come into contact with it, eventually killing them. Spread DE throughout ant problem areas and directly on the colony’s nest if possible. Diatomaceous Earth is especially effective for combatting carpenter ants, which regularly die from consuming it.
Non-toxic Insecticides—Both Indoor and Outdoor
All natural, over-the-counter insecticides are often the easiest and most effective option for completely eliminating a carpenter ant colony. The best approach is to treat both outside and inside your home. Non-toxic indoor insecticidescan be used as both a repellent and a contact killer. Natural outdoor insecticides also work as both deterrents and spot killers. For best results, apply non-toxic outdoor pesticides alongside fence lines and your home’s foundation; this will create a repellent barrier to keep ants from entering your home. Treating your entire yard will help to eliminate any active outdoor carpenter ant colonies.
Vinegar
Vinegar is an extremely effective natural carpenter ant deterrent. It disrupts their pheromone trails and the smell prevents them from returning. Mix a 1-to-1 ratio of water to vinegar in a spray bottle (both apple cider and white vinegar will do). Shake the solution and then spray along baseboards, door frames, window sills, countertops, and directly on the nest if possible. Repeat the process daily or as needed to repel carpenter ants. Vinegar is a natural disinfectant and multi-surface cleaner—so feel free to use the spray liberally.
Cinnamon & Cinnamon Oil
Not unlike the previously mentioned essential oils and vinegar, cinnamon and cinnamon oil deter ants by interfering with their pheromone trails. Dispense the cinnamon in whatever form throughout ant problem areas and directly on the nest if possible. When used around windowsills, baseboards, near doors and alongside countertops, cinnamon helps prevent carpenter ants from entering your home.
We love animals here at Cedarcide. And not just common pets like dogs, cats and horses—we love them all. In fact, protecting animals and the environment from the toxic effects of traditional pesticides is a big part of what inspires us to do what we do.
Because many of our customers are bird owners, or use our products for agricultural reasons, we’re sometimes asked, “Is cedar oil toxic to birds?” The answer is yes—but it’s a little complicated. While we have customers who use our products to treat outdoor chicken coops and cages, our products are not formulated for birds, and therefore we suggest you do not use them on or for birds. When applied directly or otherwise used incorrectly, cedar oil can be toxic, even deadly to birds.
Cedar Oil And Birds
Cedar bedding and cedar oil are known to irritate birds’ delicate respiratory systems, and at high doses, can actually kill them. Birds are especially vulnerable to strong scents—like those found in essential oils, candles, and manufactured fragrances. Phenols, which are present in many of these strong-smelling items, are often the culprit: phenols are toxic to several small animals such as cats and birds. If you fear your bird may have been exposed to toxic fumes, look for the common signs of disease and illness in birds. For a full a list of woods toxic to birds, click here.
How Is Cedarcide Cedar Oil Different?
Firstly, Cedarcide cedar oil never contains phenols or phenolic compounds. Secondly, because we use only the highest quality cedar oil sourced from only pet-safe cedar trees (Juniperus ashei, to be specific), our products are always all natural and non-toxic. Using a multi-step filtration process, our cedar oil is purified of all unnecessary contaminants and other potentially harmful ingredients. However, as mentioned before, cedar-based products should never be used directly on birds under any circumstance.
Pest Control For Birds
Even though Cedarcide products aren’t suitable for birds, there are several other natural options for protecting your pet birds or chickens from biting insects and parasites. From diatomaceous earth and bug-repelling plants, to apple cider vinegar and natural cleaning practices, there are many non-toxic and eco-friendly ways to reduce the insect populations that threaten your avian friends. For more info on natural pest control for birds, check out the following resources:
When it comes to weed-control, the world’s on edge. Monsanto—producer of the most financially successful weed-killer on the planet, Roundup—is currently locked in a mess of legal battles. Rumor and science have it that Roundup’s active ingredient, Glyphosate, causes cancer. As the most widely used herbicide on the planet—on average, a pound of Roundup is used on every acre of cropland in the U.S., half a pound on every acre of cropland worldwide—these findings should alarm all of us.
This is of course a reminder of the importance of non-toxic, all natural alternatives to chemical-based herbicides and pesticides. The truth is when it comes to weeds, you can go natural and still get the results you’re looking for: a weed-free lawn & garden. Whereas traditional weed-killers endanger our soil, our water, our family and our pets, the following eco-friendly, chemical-free alternatives threaten only one organism: Weeds!
Pull Them
The obvious tried-and-true method of pulling weeds by hand is still one of the best. This approach is easiest when the soil is soft and wet, like just after a light rainfall. For detailed instructions on how to properly pull weeds, click here
Baking Soda
Sodium makes soil less hospitable to dandelions and other common weeds. To prevent weeds and other unwanted grasses from growing, use baking soda. Apply the baking soda at roughly 1 teaspoon per individual weed plant, being sure to cover the entire plant—including stem, leaves and flowers. Baking soda can also be applied by sweeping it into sidewalk cracks and other common problem areas. Tip: be careful and precise when using baking soda to eliminate weeds, as the sodium content can also kill surrounding plant life.
Salt
Salt works the same way baking soda does: sodium helps kill and prevent weed growth. Mix a solution of 1 cup salt to 2 cups water, and using a spray bottle, apply it to any undesirable plant growth. This solution can also be boiled and then applied for added weed-killing power. Caution: never use more salt than necessary, as considerable salting of soil can render it unhealthy.
Vinegar
Vinegar is a fast and highly effective natural weed-killer. While both white vinegar and apple cider vinegar will work, agricultural-strength vinegar is the most convenient and effective option. Using a spray bottle, thoroughly soak both the foliage and lower stem of each weed plant. Apply with caution, as vinegar kills most types of plant life, not just weeds. If it rains shortly after application, you may need to reapply once the soil has dried out again.
Vodka
Have some extra vodka lying around? If so, you also have a free DIY weed-eliminator. Mix 1 oz. of your vodka with 2 cups of water and a few drops of liquid dish soap in a spray bottle. Apply the mixture in the heat of the day, thoroughly coating the weeds’ leaves. This solution works by breaking down the weeds’ natural waxy coat, making them vulnerable to sun damage and dehydration. Note: this method does not work for weeds growing in shade.
Corn Gluten Meal
While corn gluten meal—a finely ground byproduct of the corn milling process—won’t kill existing weeds, it’s a miracle solution for preventing weed growth. In effect, corn gluten meal works by preventing weed seeds from germinating, and ultimately sprouting. Best of all, corn gluten meal is also a naturally nutrient-rich plant food.
Boiling Water
When boiled, basic household tap water transforms into a weed-destroying formula. Simply pour the boiling water anywhere you’re experiencing weed troubles (careful—boiling water can also kill surrounding plant life if not applied directly to the weeds alone). Exercise extreme caution when using this approach—we don’t need to remind you of the dangers associated with boiling water.
Mulch
As with any other plant, weeds cannot grow without sunlight. Kill weeds by denying them of this essential element. Using biodegradable newspapers (most are), completely cover the weeds, and then thoroughly coat the newspaper-covered weeds with a two-inch-thick bed of mulch. Note: any grass or plants similarly covered will likely also die, so apply carefully.
Oil
Toxic, unnatural oils like motor oil are a big no-no, but new or used vegetable oil is both eco-safe and effective at killing weeds. Entirely coat unwanted weeds by carefully pouring vegetable oil on both foliage and stem. The weeds will be gone in no time.
Weed-Suppressing Plants
Like all living organisms, weeds have to compete for limited resources to survive (sunlight, soil, water, etc). Researchers at Cornell University have found that certain ground-covering plants are especially good at robbing weeds of these necessary resources. Install the following plants to help keep weeds out of your garden:
Cats are special to us here at Cedarcide. They work alongside us all day, everyday—sleeping in our laps, lounging on our desks, watching over us as we hand-bottle & package your orders. (We’re now going to shamelessly show off our office cats, because who doesn’t keep 500+ pet pictures on their phones for these exact opportunities, right?)
C1 and C2 doing their weekly peanut inspections.
(Fun fact: We use pet safe, biodegradable peanuts that are made from corn starch.)
“I think maybe I can fit in here like dis.” -C2
Conan enjoying a mid day cat nap.
OK, enough pet pictures (for now.)
Occasionally we’re asked, “Is cedar oil toxic to cats?” The short answer is No. We wouldn’t let our furry friends hang around—much less use—our products if they were toxic or otherwise unsafe for cats. But there’s more to be said about the relationship between cedar oil and cats. Let us explain.
Cedar Oil And Cats
Cats—being highly sensitive to both odors and many essential oils—can suffer adverse side effects from improperly formulated cedar oil. Phenols, which are naturally present in several essential oils, can be outright fatal to cats, especially smaller individuals such as kittens. An inability to metabolize this common ingredient is what renders some types of cedar oil harmful to cats. Furthermore, some species of cedar—like Western red cedar—are naturally toxic to both pets and people, and should never be used in topical pet products.
How Is Cedarcide Cedar Oil Different?
Firstly, Cedarcide cedar oil never contains any phenols or phenolic compounds. Secondly, because we use only the highest quality cedar oil sourced from only pet-safe cedar trees (Juniperus ashei, to be specific), our products are always non-toxic, all natural, and safe for pets. Using a multi-step filtration process, our cedar oil is purified of all unnecessary contaminants—including any potentially harmful ingredients like phenols. However, as with any topical pet product, you should test your cat for possible sensitivity or allergy to cedar oil with a small first application.
How To Use Cedarcide For Cats
At Cedarcide, we offer three products for cats and cat owners: our all natural insect spray, Cedarcide Original, our non-toxic pet shampoo, Cedarsuds, and the all new Flea + Tick Brush.
Tips for Using Cedarcide Original On Cats Because cats like to lick their fur, and because they’re also extremely sensitive to scents, it’s best to test for possible sensitivity with a light initial application. While Cedarcide Original is non-toxic and cat-safe, on rare occasions smaller cats and kittens have found the natural cedar scent of Cedarcide Original too strong for their liking.
If like most cats, your furry friend takes no issue with Cedarcide Original, apply the formula by lightly misting your hands and massaging the spray into your cat’s coat. Be sure to apply Cedarcide Original all over—including armpits, in between toes, and around the ears and tail. Using Cedarcide Original in this way will not only kill any hidden pests, it will also provide protection against additional fleas, ticks, mosquitoes and other biting insects.
Cedarcide Flea + Tick Brush The Cedarcide Flea + Tick Brush is the safest, easiest and most effective way to protect your cat from fleas, ticks and other biting insects. Designed to dispense Cedarcide Original insect repellent directly to your pet’s skin, the Flea + Tick Brush takes the mess out of keeping your cat safe from harmful pests. The moisturizing quality of Cedarcide Original will also help with tangles and matting.
Cedarsuds Our pet shampoo is a favorite among cat owners. Simply use it as you would any other pet shampoo—It will leave your cat with a shiny, clean and great smelling coat.
We love horses here at Cedarcide. So much so, in fact, we’ve rescued 7 of them from kill pens as part of the Cedarcide Horse Rescue. The strength, grace and kindness of these majestic animals continues to be a great source of inspiration for our Cedarcide team.
Occasionally we’re asked, “Is cedar oil toxic to horses?” The short answer is No—when properly formulated and properly used, cedar oil is not toxic to horses. But there’s more to be said on the topic. Let us explain.
Cedar Oil And Horses
It’s important to note that you should never use full-strength essential oils directly on your horse’s coat—that includes cedar oil. Undiluted essential oils can be irritating to horses’ skin, and “hot” essential oils—which includes cassia, cinnamon bark, clove, hyssop, lemongrass, ocotea, oregano, and thyme—can actually cause mild burns and rashes. When it comes to cedar oil specifically, some species of cedar—like Western red cedar and white cedar for example—are naturally toxic and irritating, and should never be used in topical horse products.
Full a full list of plants toxic to horses, click here.
How Is Cedarcide Cedar Oil Different?
Firstly, Cedarcide products never contain toxic species of cedar. Secondly, because we use only the highest quality cedar oil sourced from only pet-safe cedar trees (Juniperus ashei, to be specific), our products are always non-toxic, all natural, and safe for pets, including horses. Using a multi-step filtration process, our cedar oil is purified of all unnecessary contaminants and any other potentially harmful ingredients. However, as with any topical animal product, we suggest testing your horse for possible sensitivity or allergy to cedar oil with a light initial application.
How To Use Cedarcide For Horses
At Cedarcide, we offer four products for horses and horse owners: our all natural insect spray, Cedarcide Original, our natural extra strength insect spray, Tickshield, our concentrated pest-control bathing solution, Vet’s Choice, and a ready-to-use Domestic Animal Spray, D.A.S. Note: all our pet products are natural, eco-friendly and non-toxic.
Tips for Using Cedarcide Original and Tickshield on Horses We’ve found that some horses dislike being sprayed—for whatever reason, the spraying or spritzing action can occasionally frighten some horses. Because of this, we recommend approaching your first application of Cedarcide Original or Tickshield with caution. If you find your horse dislikes being sprayed, simply apply your chosen solution by misting your hands and massaging the spray into your horse’s coat.
If the spraying action does not bother your horse, apply Cedarcide Original or its extra strength counterpart, Tickshield, by misting your horse all over—including armpits, underbelly, and around the ears and tail. However, when applying these solutions, do not spray your horse’s face. Instead, spray the solution into your palms, and apply it to the face using your hands. Regularly treating your horses with Cedarcide Original or Tickshield will kill and provide protection against additional ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and other biting insects.
Tips for Using Vet’s Choice on Horses Vet’s Choice is an extra strength, all natural and highly versatile concentrate designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock. Vet’s Choice eliminates and repels ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and dozens of other biting insects. Vet’s Choice can be mixed with water for use as a bath, spray or dip. It can also be used in stables and barns to reduce flying insects, or used as a treatment for mange and several other common skin disorders.
If you plan to spray your horse directly, use 4 oz. of Vet’s Choice per each gallon of water. For a bath, we suggest mixing 2 oz. of Vet’s Choice per each gallon of water. For a dip, use a 1:200 ratio of Vet’s Choice to water.
Tips for Using D.A.S. for Horses D.A.S. (Domestic Animal Spray) is a ready-to-use, all natural and highly versatile solution designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock—think of it as a pre-diluted version of Vet’s Choice. Like Vet’s Choice, D.A.S. can be used as a bath, spray or dip, but with D.A.S. there’s no need to dilute beforehand. D.A.S. can be used in stable misting systems to reduce flying insects. It can also be used to treat mange and other common skin disorders. vr bgt/yuipo
Tip: D.A.S. works best when animals are thoroughly wetted with the product and allowed to air dry.
Red bugs, mower’s mites, berry bugs, harvest bugs, chiggers—the arachnids scientifically known as trombiculidaemites go by many names. Ranging in size from 0.3mm to 0.4mm (1/60 of an inch), chiggers are nearly microscopic organisms known for their extremely itchy “bites.” Most active during spring, summer and fall, chiggers have four life stages: egg, larvae, nymph and adult. But only the larval stage individuals—in other words, the babies—are parasitic.
Found in moist vegetation worldwide (like grassy lawns, bushes and forests), these red-orange mites attach themselves to a host—a reptile, rabbit, insect, or human for example—in order to feed on their skin. Contrary to popular belief, chiggers do not bite or burrow into their hosts; instead, they inject digestive enzymes into their host’s skin in order to create a hole from which they can feed. After sucking up this liquified skin meal, the baby chigger drops to the ground, where it matures into its next life stage.
What Do Chigger “Bites” Look Like?
Appearing 6-48 hours after the chigger has fed, chigger “bites” consist of red bumps infamous for their intense itchiness. These irritating lesions usually occur in clusters in or around areas where skin and clothing are in close proximity—like the waist, ankles, armpits, crotch-area and back. While the first several days are the worst, these bumps can persist for weeks, even months in a milder form.
How Do You Prevent Chigger “Bites?”
Like with mosquitos and ticks, you need to employ a repellent when venturing into chigger territory. Because of the toxicity of traditional bug sprays, we recommend using only natural, non-toxic pesticides/repellents. For the sake of your pets well-being, treat them to repel chiggers, too. For additional protection, we recommend wearing long clothing when walking in suspected chigger areas, being sure to tuck pants into socks, and shirt into pants. After returning from such areas, bathe immediately in warm, soapy water. All possibly infested clothing should be promptly washed in warm-hot water, too.
How Do You Get Chiggers?
This a two part question: (1) How does one get bitten by chiggers? And (2) How do chiggers get into our lawns. Walking through a wooded area, tall grass or weeds, or on lawns not treated with pesticides, is how most people pick up their first chigger “bites”. This is also a common way that chigger populations are accidentally introduced into our yards, as chiggers readily hitch a ride on our clothing only to be dropped somewhere near our homes. Other common hosts such as rodents, turtles, small birds, and more also contribute to the spread of chiggers—which is why a regular outdoor pest-control regimen is encouraged during the warmer seasons.
What To Do If You Have Chiggers
If you feel chiggers have invaded your lawn & garden, or if you want to prevent them from doing so in the first place, you’ll need to treat your lawn with an all natural outdoor pest control solution. In the heavy chigger months between spring and fall, we recommend treating your entire yard at least once per month to help keep your home and lawn chigger-free.
Dog parks are the playgrounds of the canine world—they’re fun, full of cute dogs, and the easiest way for your pup to socialize. Like actual playgrounds, without proper supervision and common sense, your animal child could get hurt. Read the following dog park tips & tricks to make the most of you and your dog’s precious play time.
Bring Supplies
At the minimum, bring the following items when visiting a dog park.
Cell phone for emergencies (and documenting cuteness, too, of course!)
Animal deterrent spray or air horn to protect both you and your pup from attacks
Poop bags
Cool, filtered water
Your dog’s collar and leash
Leave the Treats and Toys at Home
While some dogs know how to share toys and treats successfully, others don’t. Introducing desirable objects like stuffed animals and snacks into a dog park is a powder keg waiting to blow. Aggressive defensiveness and fights over toys is almost a guarantee, and you or your dog could get hurt in the process.
Consider the Size of Your Dog
Some dog parks divide small dogs and large dogs to avoid potential confrontations. Others just throw every age, breed, and size all into one space. If your local park is of this last type, there’s a few things to watch out for. First, if you’re a large dog owner, never let your pooch scare or play too rough with smaller dogs—in fact, be cautious about any interaction with dogs much smaller than your own. If you’re a small dog owner, it’s probably best you find a small-breed-specific park, or find one where small and large dogs are kept separate.
Leave In-Heat and Pregnant Females at Home
Like with treats and toys, in-heat and pregnant females should never be brought to the park. For obvious reasons, this could lead to aggression, defensiveness and outright fighting.
Don’t Bring Puppies
Dog parks can be a rough environment for inexperienced, non-socialized dogs. That’s why puppies younger than 4 months should never be brought to the dog park. Young dogs are also more susceptible to infectious diseases, something dog parks are often riddled with.
Spay, Neuter, and Vaccinate Your Dog
Never, and we mean never, bring an ill, un-vaccinated, un-spayed or un-neutered dog to the dog park. This is a quick way to ruin the experience for everyone.
Master the “Come Here” Command
Do not take your pup to the dog park until you have consistent vocal control of them. Considering nearly every dog park is leash-less, the “come here” command is essential to ensure the safety of your dog. It’s best to hold off on visiting your local park until your animal friend understands and adheres to this command regularly.
Pick the Right Dog Park
If you have responsible dog owners as friends and relatives, ask them what dog parks they use most often, and which ones they recommend for your type of dog—this is often the best way to find a suitable park. (Pet Friendly Travel’s dog park locator works well, too). On the first visit to your selected dog park, carefully observe the setting before allowing your dog to enter. Are the grounds poorly maintained? Is there dog poop everywhere? Is it overly crowded? If “yes” is the answer to any of the above, keep looking—you haven’t found that perfect dog park yet.
Exercise Your Pup Beforehand
Recently exercised dogs are more relaxed, less aggressive, and overrall in a better state of mind. It might seem counterintuitive, but exercising your pup before visiting the dog park will almost always improve the experience.
Safeguard Your Dog From Fleas, Ticks and Parasites
Dog parks are notorious breeding grounds for fleas, ticks and parasites. In fact, a single, unprotected dog park visit could bring a full blown infestation to your own backyard (and living room!). Before and after dog park visits, be sure to spray both your pup and yourself with a natural, non-toxic insecticide and repellent. After your visit, you’ll need to check for ticks, too.
Size Up The Other Dog Owners
Dog owners—not dogs—determine the quality and safety of a dog park. Before letting your dog into the park, take a look around. Do the people at the park seem responsible? Do they have good control over their pups? If the answers are “no,” we advise you seek out another dog park or return another day.
Be Wary of Children
Bringing kids to the dog park is not ideal. Children’s erratic behavior, sudden movements, and general loudness can scare unfamiliar dogs, causing them to act aggressively. If you encounter children at the dog park, be wary of allowing your dog near them—the risks are simply too great. If for some reason you must bring your own child to the dog park, keep them near, watch them closely, do not allow them to run or scream, and keep them away from the other dogs.
Observe Your Dog’s Body Language
Always keep a close watch on your pup when visiting a dog park, and pay special attention to their body language (Sorry—but that means no excessive cell phone use!). Confrontations can usually be avoided simply by observing your dog’s mood. Signs of nervousness, defensiveness, or fear is the cue to relocate your dog to a safer, quieter space to play.
If the worst happens and your pup gets tangled in a fight with another dog, attempt to remain calm, and firmly command them to come back to you. Do not attempt to break up the fight yourself, you could be seriously injured. Instead, use the aforementioned air horn or animal deterrent spray—after all, you packed them for this exact situation. Afterwards, move your pet to another area or simply leave the park and return another day.
Remove The Leash
If your chosen park is leash-free, do not leave your dog on the leash. Dogs on leashes tend to feel less safe when surrounded by other leash-free pups, which can potentially cause aggressive defensive behavior. Plus, in a fast-paced, playful environment with dogs running around everywhere, leashes represent a serious safety hazard for both humans and other dogs.
Chill Out
Loudness and anxiety are things your pup and surrounding dogs will pick up on. Yelling commands at your dog, or generally acting distressed, can cause unwanted excitement among the dogs in the park, which can in turn lead to aggressive behavior. Just chill out, remain relatively quiet and relaxed, and everyone will have a much better time.
.jpg?t=1501165140357&width=638&name=10%20All%20Natural%20Tips%20to%20Get%20Rid%20of%20Carpenter%20Ants%20(1).jpg)
.png?t=1500045704486&width=548&name=unnamed%20(1).png)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg?t=1499461823968&width=410&name=justin-veenema-156591%20(2).jpg)
.jpg?t=1499461823968&width=398&name=leo-rivas-micoud-25478%20(1).jpg)
