How to Get Rid of Earwigs Naturally

While their large pinchers might seem threatening, earwigs are actually quite harmless, and in many cases can be a welcome addition to your yard’s natural ecosystem. And no, the old wives’ tales are not true—earwigs never burrow into human ears or present any other threat to people or pets. In fact, in small numbers, these nocturnal, reddish-brown insects are actually beneficial, helping rid our lawns of decaying organic matter and undesirable or damaging bugs like aphids, slugs, snails, and mites. 

However, when conditions are just right, earwig populations can explode. In these instances, earwigs can cause significant damage to your lawn and garden, as they begin feeding on living plants, like vegetables, fruits, and ornamental flowers. In these cases, you’ll need to act fast to prevent costly damage. The following tips will help you keep earwig populations to a healthy, manageable level, all without resorting to poisonous, old-school pesticides.

 

• Jagged leaves with holes throughout your lawn and garden, similar to slug and snail damage but without the tell-tale slime trails. 
• Check on or around damaged plants for small black spots, this is what earwig poop looks like. 
• Lawn & garden damage that seems to occur mostly after rainy or particularly humid weather. 
• If you have planters, furniture, or any other equipment or tools in your yard, lift them up and check for earwigs. The babies look just like adult earwigs only smaller. They are likely to be found near mulch and other moist organic debris, too.

 

Preventing earwigs is much easier than getting rid of a thriving population. Thankfully, prevention is quite easy and essentially all comes down to basic home and lawn maintenance. Here’s how to do it:

• Earwigs usually enter our homes through small cracks or holes in windows, screens, doorways, baseboards, and countertops. Check these areas for possible earwig entry points and re-seal or repair items as needed. This will help with other common household bugs like ants, too. 
• Leaky faucets, drains, and other plumping either inside or outside your home can attract earwigs. Clogged gutters are also a common source of earwig problems. Check these items periodically and repair, replace, or clean as needed. 
• Earwigs tend to live in and feed on moist organic matter, like mulch, stacks of wood, leaves, and unkempt vegetation. Removing these attractants and other unnecessary clutter from your lawn can make a big difference when it comes to earwigs. 
• Large overhanging branches and dense shrubbery can help create moist, shady areas in your lawn, which is exactly the environment earwigs need to survive. Trim trees and bushes as needed to limit possible earwig hideouts. 

 

A DIY earwig trap is an effective way to reduce the number of earwigs in your lawn and garden. Just roll up a few sheets of damp newspaper and bind them together with a couple rubber bands. Place these rolls both inside and outside wherever earwigs tend to congregate, or near where you suspect they may be damaging your plants. Then simply check them the next day and dispose of any trapped earwigs. Pretty easy, right? 

 

Garden pests can create a vicious cycle that ultimately ruins your beautiful lawn and garden. It goes like this: pest damage leads to a less healthy lawn, and sicklier lawns are more attractive to damaging garden pests.

Break up this cycle by treating your lawn each month with the family-friendly Lawn & Garden Kit. Not only will this kill any unwanted bugs in your lawn—like mosquitoes, ants, fleas, ticks, and chiggers—but it will help prevent additional damaging pests like earwigs from taking hold. Repeat treatments monthly during the warm months or more as needed.

Because the Lawn & Garden Kit is non-toxic and plant-based, no downtime is required. You, your family, and pets can enjoy your lawn immediately after application.

 

While they’re mostly seen outdoors, earwigs occasionally find their way inside your home in search of food and shelter. A quick spray with family and pet-safe Cedarcide Original will kill any earwigs you see inside on contact.

To help keep future earwigs outdoors, spray known entry points and trouble areas like the baseboards and flooring in your bathrooms, laundry room, basement, and kitchen weekly with Cedarcide Original until the problem improves. 

 

Like many insects, earwigs are attracted to lights, especially any lighting positioned or pointing outdoors. Thankfully, there’s an easy way to address this common earwig attractant. A quick switch from traditional light bulbs to sodium bulbs can make a significant difference in the number of earwigs you experience near your home. Giving off a more yellow light, these bulbs lack the blue wavelengths that tend to attract unwanted bugs.

 

A thriving ecosystem with plenty of birds is often enough to keep unwanted earwig populations in check. Installing a few bird feeders or baths near earwig trouble spots in your yard can provide almost immediate results.

 

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How to Get Rid of Carpenter Ants: 3 Steps

If you think you might have carpenter ants, there’s no time to spare, so let’s get right to the point. Once you locate the colony, getting rid of carpenter ants with Cedarcide is straightforward and best of all it doesn’t involve exposing your family or pets to poisonous pesticides. Here’s to get rid of prevent carpenter ants with Cedarcide in 3 simple steps:

 

Contrary to popular belief carpenter ants do not actually eat wood, but are instead attracted by the same things that draw in normal ants, such as moisture, clutter, and sugary or protein-packed food sources. The following tips will help prevent not only carpenter ants but other common household ants from returning to your lawn or home. 

• Apply PCO Choice to your lawn, foundation, and bases of wooden structures monthly to kill and help repel both indoor and outdoor ants.
• Remove possible nesting spaces from your yard, such as woodpiles, wooden yard equipment, brush, dead or dying trees & tree stumps, unused dog houses, furniture, and any other unnecessary wooden items.
• Keep tree limbs and branches away from the walls of your home. Carpenter ants can use these as bridges to enter your home.
• Do not store lumber or firewood inside or right outside your home.
• Treat all wooden items and structures before or after construction with Cedarshield, which will make the wood inhospitable to wood-boring insects. 
• Keep your home clean—particularly the kitchen, flooring, windowsills and countertops. Without a food source, ants will have no reason to enter your home.
• Seal all food in tightly closed containers. Keep all food storage areas free of crumbs and residues (Tip: periodically wipe off jam, sauce and honey containers, too).
• Never leave food remains or dirty dishes in the sink.
• Take the trash out regularly, and keep all trash cans clean and sealed. If you’re currently struggling with ants, consider taking out the trash daily. 
• Food and drink spills should be cleaned up immediately.
• Looking both outside and inside your home, check for potential ant entry points. Seal any you find with caulk or another sealant to make it harder for ants to move indoors.
• Remove or remedy all sources of unnecessary moisture both inside and outside your home, including: leaky plumbing, basements, crawl spaces, A/C units, hoses, faucets, sprinklers, clogged drainage areas, etc

 

As with most ants, carpenter ants often originate just outside your home somewhere in your yard, maybe in a wood pile, old tree, or wooden structure. In other words, If you’re seeing carpenter ants or any other ants outside, they’ll find a way inside your home before you know it. In fact, sometimes treating your lawn for bugs each month is enough to get an indoor carpenter ant issue under control. Here’s how to do it. 

Spray your entire lawn, shrubbery, wood piles, and bases of trees and wooden structures monthly with PCO Choice to both kill and repel carpenter ants in all life stages. For warmer regions, this should be done every month unless the temperature drops below freezing for more than a few weeks. If you live in an area known for cold winters, start spraying monthly in late February and then taper off in November as winter sets in.

No downtime required! PCO Choice is family and pet-safe, meaning you can safely enjoy your lawn immediately after application. 

For extra outdoor carpenter ant prevention, spread Cedar Granules throughout your yard, especially in those areas where you’re seeing the most carpenter ant and other bug traffic. Pay special attention to fence lines and the foundations of your home and wooden structures like outbuildings and sheds. Reapply every 6 weeks. 

For ongoing Carpenter ant and other pest problems, spray your yard with PCO Choice twice the first month, two weeks apart, and then move on to monthly applications after that. If you locate any ant piles or carpenter ant colonies in your lawn, perhaps on a tree or near a wooden structure, stir up the mound with a stick and saturate it directly with PCO Choice

 

The next time you reach for a can of bug spray to kill ants inside your home, including carpenter ants, take a moment to consider the possible consequences. Traditional indoor bug sprays can fill your home with toxic chemicals, resulting in serious health complications for your family and pets—but not Cedarcide.

Family-safe Cedarcide Original is a non-toxic insecticide for use indoors, as well as directly on people and pets to kill and repel bugs. Whenever you spot carpenter ants inside—like in your cabinets, on flooring, countertops, or on wooden structures—simply spray them with Cedarcide Original. 

Similarly, spray known entry points like window sills, doorways, countertops and baseboards with Cedarcide Original to prevent outdoor carpenter ants from coming inside. To get a carpenter ant problem fully under control, however, you’ll almost certainly need to locate and treat their colony directly.

FIND THE COLONY

Carpenter ants nest in moist, decaying wood. Their nests can be located either inside or outside the home, and you might need to follow the carpenter ant trails in order to find them. In general, if you find carpenter ants inside your home during late winter or early spring, the colony is usually located somewhere inside. Here are some basic tips for locating a carpenter ant colony:

• Look for frass. Frass is finely ground wood debris that resembles sawdust. It’s the result of carpenter ants boring into wood to build their nests. If you see this in your home, the carpenter ants are nearby.
• Damaged wood on or within walls, doors, cabinets, and wood beams is a good indicator of an indoor colony. Look specifically for sandpaper-smooth carpenter ant galleries and holes.
• Place attractants like dog food, jam or other sweets where you most commonly spot carpenter ants. Using the resulting ant trails, attempt to find the location of their nest.
• If you have wood piles or other wooden debris inside or just outside your home, check them thoroughly—the ant colony could be inside. If you locate the carpenter ants there, remove the affected wood and avoid storing similar items inside or outside your home moving forward. 

Once you locate the colony, saturate it with Cedarcide Original until you no longer see carpenter ant activity. Afterwards, thoroughly clean the area with natural soap and water or diluted vinegar. After cleaning, spray the entire area again with Cedarcide Original to help prevent future carpenter ant problems. 

MAKE NATURAL CARPENTER ANT BAIT

If you’re having trouble locating the carpenter ant nest, making your own carpenter ant bait at home can help limit the population size without treating the colony directly. It’s no substitute for destroying the colony, but it can help substantially.

Make a simple and natural carpenter ant bait by mixing equal parts baking soda and powdered sugar. Strategically place this mixture inside shallow dishes near the locations where you usually spot carpenter ants or carpenter ant damage. This bait can also be placed outside, particularly near doorways and windows. The sugar in the mixture will attract the ants and the baking soda will naturally kill them. 

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How to Get Rid of Powderpost Beetles Naturally

Second in damage only to termites, powderpost beetles can do a number on your home’s wooden structure, its furniture, fencing, and more. Hard, soft, old, new—powderpost beetles aren’t picky and will eat nearly any type of wood. They’re known to damage books and other valuables like paintings, too. 

It goes like this: the adults of these wood-boring beetles lay eggs in the pores of wood items. These develop into larvae which feed on the wood from the inside out, eventually exiting via small pinholes after maturing into adults. Their life cycle is remarkably slow, often taking years to go from egg to adult. The adults live only a few days, long enough to lay eggs, and then the whole destructive cycle starts over again. The good news: it usually takes a significant amount of time for powderpost beetles to do serious damage. The bad news: because they eat and grow slowly, you likely won’t notice them until it’s too late. 

Think you have powderpost beetles? Just looking for prevention? We have you covered. Here’s how to spot, prevent, and get rid of powderpost beetles naturally.

 

Because they grow slowly and their damage happens over longer periods of time, powderpost beetles aren’t always easy to spot. In fact, it can take years before you notice they’re around. Here’s what to look for:

• Small round holes about ⅛ inch or smaller. This is where the beetles exit the wood once they mature.
• The most obvious sign of a powderpost post beetle problem is the appearance of frass, which is essentially sawdust mixed with the beetle’s waste. In fact, this powdery debris is where the beetles get their name. This is usually found near the wood where the beetles are hiding. 
• Grooves or small tunnels carved into the side of wooden items. You’ll likely notice frass nearby, too. 

 

Preventing a powderpost beetle issue is rather straightforward. Here are some simple steps you can take to keep them away from your home and out of your wooden items. 

• Before bringing home rough-cut or raw lumber, inspect it for signs of pest activity, including damage like holes and carved tunnels. 
• Request that rough-cut and raw lumber be kiln dried before bringing it home. 
• Treat fencing, decks, furniture, garden boxes, and other wooden structures with a long-lasting wood protectant like Cedarshield. Powderpost beetles will almost never inhabit treated wood.
• Avoid storing wooden items outdoors, such as in an outbuilding or barn. 
• Sanding and varnishing tends to make most wood unappetizing to powderpost beetles and other wood-boring insects. 

 

If it looks like you have powderpost beetles after reading the info above, don’t worry. It’s not ideal, but these pests are not that difficult to manage and are slow-working when it comes to damaging your wood. The below natural approaches will help you solve your powderpost problem without resorting to poisonous pesticides that could harm your family and pets. 

 

KILN DRY LUMBER

In addition to helping prevent powderpost beetle problems, kiln drying can also be used after the fact to get rid of an ongoing issue. All you’ll need to do is take infested items to a local sawmill and have them kiln dried. 

 

TREAT THE WOOD

Powderpost beetles will not inhabit wood that’s been thoroughly treated to remove and protect against moisture, which is why it’s a great way to prevent them. Thankfully, this same approach can be used to kill or seal up beetles hidden deep inside.

Using a wood treatment like Cedarshield, which removes all moisture from the wood and strengthens it against rot, decay, and warping, thoroughly treat all wooden items housing powderpost beetles. It’s that easy.

FREEZING

It might not work for furniture or structural wood, but freezing is an easy, free way to rid smaller items of powderpost beetles. Simply place them in a freezer for 72 hours, ideally at about 0°F. In rare cases, some eggs could survive the freezing so make sure to monitor the wood for damage and other signs of beetles over the next few months. 

 

FAMILY-SAFE PESTICIDES

There’s no need for the toxic stuff. Using a family and pet-safe insecticide like Cedarcide Original, spray any beetles you see directly for immediate results. For smaller items you fear may have powderpost beetles, spray them every few weeks with Cedarcide Original to limit damage and prevent future issues. 

 

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What Are No-See-Ums? And How to Get Rid of Them.

 

Also known as biting midges or sandflies, no-see-ums are a family of small flies that resemble gnats and mostly feed on plant nectar. If their name didn’t give it away already, they’re so tiny they’re often impossible to see, usually no more than 1–3 mm in size (that’s not much larger than the point of a pencil!). In fact, most people don’t realize they’ve encountered these bugs until they start to itch. You see, just like mosquitoes, female no-see-ums bite and drink blood, which they require to lay eggs. 

But here’s the bad news: no-see-um bites tend to be more painful, more irritating, and more numerous than mosquito bites, which is largely due to the saw-like mouth parts they use to rip into your skin. In other words, you don’t want these bugs anywhere near you, your family, lawn, or pets—and we’re here to help you make that happen. Read on for simple, family-safe strategies for getting rid of these little monsters and preventing their awful bites. 

 

PREVENTION

Like with any pest, prevention is unquestionably the best form of no-see-um control, and the easiest way to avoid painful bites. Because of their similar life cycles and environmental needs, preventing no-see-ums looks a lot like basic mosquito prevention. That is to say, it’s all about reducing unnecessary moisture, breeding sites, and common hiding spots. Here are some basic guidelines to follow. 

• Maintaining a clean, organized, and trim yard is essential. No-see-ums are attracted to spaces with clutter and dense vegetation, including brush, bushes, and tall grass. Start by removing all non-essential clutter from your yard, especially items that collect moisture like unused equipment, planters, tree stumps, etc. Then, mow and trim shrubbery weekly or more as needed.
• If your lawn includes water features like bird baths, decorative ponds, or fountains, you’ll need to closely monitor these items during spring and summer, cleaning and repairing as necessary. Even better, seriously consider draining these features during peak no-see-um season (Mar.–Sept.).
• To prevent breeding, repair or replace leaky or otherwise faulty drains, pipes, hoses, sprinklers, and faucets ASAP
• Limiting sources of light just outside your home can significantly reduce no-see-um populations. For best results, keep your blinds closed at night and keep your outside lights off during spring and summer. We also suggest trading your traditional light bulbs for those that do not attract bugs, such as yellow compact fluorescent lights (CFL), sodium vapor bulbs, or halogen options. 

PREVENT NO-SEE-UM BITES

Nobody wants a body covered in red, swollen, itchy bumps. Thankfully, preventing no-see-um bites with Cedarcide is simple and takes just a few seconds. 

Before hiking, camping, lawn work, dog walks, and other activities that could expose you to no-see-ums, apply Cedarcide Original to you, your family, and pets. Then simply reapply every 5-7 hours or after getting wet. Not only is Cedarcide Original non-toxic and safe for your family and pets, it can be used all throughout your home to kill and repel pests like fleas, ticks, ants, mosquitoes, and mites. It’s also a very popular alternative to traditional chemical-based flea & tick products. 

 

RID YOUR LAWN OF NO-SEE-UMS

With the family-safe Lawn + Garden Kit, you can get the bite-free yard you and your family deserve. Best of all, it’s super easy to use and kills and repels all sorts of biting and destructive bugs, not just no-see-ums. 

For best results, spray your entire lawn, including shrubbery and bases of trees, with PCO Choice (which is included with the Lawn + Garden Kit). Pay special attention to dense vegetation like bushes, as this is where no-see-ums tend to hide and breed. Then simply spray again in about two weeks and move on to monthly applications after that.

If you’re not currently struggling with no-see-ums and you’re just looking for prevention, you can start with monthly applications right from the beginning. If you live in a warmer region such as the South, applications should be done every month unless the temperature drops below freezing for more than a few weeks. If you live in a cooler climate, start spraying monthly in late February and then taper off in November as winter really starts to set in.

Because PCO Choice is plant-based and family-safe, no downtime is necessary. You, your family, and pets can enjoy your lawn right after application!

For additional protection, we strongly advise spreading Cedar Granules throughout your outdoor space, especially in those areas where you and your family spend the most time, like patios, balconies, BBQs, etc. (Cedar Granules are also included in the Lawn + Garden Kit).

 

 

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What Bit Me? How to ID Common Bug Bites

Bug bites happen. And usually by the time you start itching, the bug that got you is long gone. Being able to properly identify a bug bite can not only help you more efficiently treat it, but can be critical in the event your bite becomes a serious medical concern, like in the case of venomous spiders and occasionally ticks and mosquitoes. Below you’ll find some of the most common biting bugs in America, along with info to help identify their bites, and what a typical reaction to that bite might look like.

   

Ants are one of the most common biting and stinging insects found in the U.S. While rarely a serious medical concern, their bites and stings can be quite unpleasant, especially if you live in the south where so called “fire ants” are commonplace.

Ant bites usually look like small red bumps surrounded by red skin, with a white pus-filled head in the middle. 

 

Unlike ants—which typically bite out of fear or aggression—fleas bite because they’re hungry. These little vampires live off mammal and bird blood and unfortunately we humans are no exception. 

Flea bites look not dissimilar to ant bites—essentially, they’re just little red bumps. They usually occur in a cluster of three of four bites and are typically found on the ankles, feet, and lower leg. 

 

When ticks bite, they can hang onto their victims for up to 10 days, which usually makes identifying a tick bite quite easy. Preferring warm, moist locations, tick bites are normally found in hidden areas like the armpit, groin, or on your scalp.

If the tick is no longer attached, identification can be difficult, as tick bites look similar to many other bites: red, irritated skin with mild swelling. There are a couple of main differences though, tick bites, unlike ant and other common insect bites and stings, are not typically filled with pus or any other fluid and rarely if ever cause pain or discomfort.

Because of the potentially serious consequences of a tick bite, contact a physician if you experience any of the following: 

• Unusual rashes at or near the bite site. 
• Intense pain or irritation
• Fever
• Extreme Lethargy
• Body aches
• Flu-like symptoms. 
• Any other signs or symptoms of infection
• Dizziness or nausea 

 

Few things can ruin outside time like a cloud of bloodthirsty mosquitoes. While intensely itchy in the moment, mosquito bites usually subside quickly, leaving little to no trace in just a few days. Rarely, however, a mosquito bite can cause more serious reactions, like swelling, soreness, blisters, localized pain, hives, even fever.

Mosquito bites tend to produce a puffy, pink bump about the size of a dime initially that hardens and becomes larger over time. Frequent scratching can lead to more severe reactions and in extreme cases infection 

Because of the potentially serious nature of mosquito bites, contact a physician if you experience any of the following: 

• Large or otherwise unusual swelling and redness
• Hives
• Headache
• Body aches 
• Flu-like symptoms. 
• Swollen lymph nodes
• Any other signs or symptoms of infection
• Dizziness or nausea 

 

The bites of horseflies, deer flies, sand flies, and even some house flies can pack a surprisingly painful punch.

Like most of the bites on this list, fly bites generally cause swelling, skin irritation, and redness at the bite site. Bumps, blisters, rashes, and welts are also common. Fly bites usually occur on the feet, ankles, lower leg, and on the neck and face area. 

Because of the potentially serious nature of some fly bites, contact a physician if you experience any of the following: 

• Large or otherwise unusual swelling and redness
• Hives
• Headache
• Body aches 
• Flu-like symptoms. 
• Swollen lymph nodes
• Any other signs or symptoms of infection
• Dizziness or nausea 

 

Unlike ticks, fleas, and mosquitoes, thankfully spiders do not transmit disease. In fact, they often make meals out of the biting and stinging insects outlined above, for the most part leaving humans alone unless they feel threatened. 

Often about as painful as a bee sting, spider bites tend to cause red, irritated skin with swelling, occasionally accompanied by a rash at the bite site. In some cases, you may even be able to pinpoint two small puncture wounds where the spider’s fangs pierced the skin (don’t worry, it sounds worse than it really is). In rare cases, nausea and dizziness may also occur.

If you experience severe or otherwise unexpected symptoms after a spider bite, or suspect the individual might be venomous like a black widow or brown recluse, contact a physician immediately.

 

Mite bites are among the hardest bites to identify. Firstly, nearly all mites are microscopic or near microscopic, making a proper diagnosis often impossible. And secondly, reactions to mite bites vary greatly, and are often confused with other causes of dermatitis. 

Chiggers are arguably the easiest mite bite to identify. Also known as harvest mites and berry bugs, chiggers live in grassy areas during the spring and summer months, waiting for unsuspecting victims to walk by so they can feed. They latch on, feed on your skin cells for several hours, and then fall off to complete their life cycle. Only a few minutes in chigger-infested areas can leave you with dozens of blisters, rashes, and hives that can itch and hurt for literally months, which can be a real downer during beach season, believe us.

Reddish welts that cause extreme skin irritation once the chigger drops off, these bites almost always occur on areas of the body where skin and clothing are in tight proximity, such as near your socks, waistband, armpits, groin, legs, and back. If you experienced bites that sound like this shortly after exploring the outdoors or sitting in grass, chances are they’re chigger bites. 

The bites of other mites, like bird mites and rodent mites, however, aren’t so easy to pinpoint. Reactions can vary from extreme pain and hives to subtler symptoms like mild irritation or a feeling that something’s crawling on your skin. While these types of mites typically prefer non-human hosts, it’s not extremely uncommon for these mites to affect entire households, and sometimes even their pets. 

Bites from bird and rodent mites tend to share one common characteristic: skin irritation. Sometimes it’s mild, sometimes it’s severe. If you’re experiencing unknown bug bites with no obvious source, it could have mites. 

Sadly for some individuals, mites can be a debilitating, long term problem that can be difficult to get under control. If you’re struggling with mites, we can help. Call us at 800-842-1464 and find relief starting today. 

 

 

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The Best Wood Protection on the Market, All Your Cedarshield Questions Answered

 

It’s been called “The Best Wood Treatment in the World.”

Decks, fencing, furniture, garden boxes, docks—our increasingly popular wood treatment, Cedarshield, can strengthen and increase the life of any woodworking project, including both and soft wood. 

But how exactly does it work, how do you apply it, and how much coverage does it get you? If you have questions like this about Cedarshield, this article is for you. Don’t see your question below? Comment, chat, or call us (800-842-1464), and we’ll add it to the list, along with a quick and simple response. Here are you most pressing Cedarshield questions answered:

 

What’s Coverage Like for Cedarshield? 

1 gallon of Cedarshield will treat approx. 200 sq. ft. for thinner wood projects like fences, and 100 sq. ft. for decks, docks and other projects with wooden boards thicker than 2×4 inches.

 

What’s the Best Way to Apply it?

There are many effective, easy ways to apply Cedarshield. You can do it by soaking/submersion, a compression sprayer, brush, or roller. You’ll know you’ve achieved a successful application once the Cedarshield fluid will no longer soak into the wood and begins beading on the surface instead.

For best results, apply a second treatment after the first application has dried. Cedarshield works best when applied to semi-damp wood in temperatures above 45°F.

 

What Kind of Wood Can I Use It On?

One of the most convenient features about Cedarshield is that it can be used on all wood types, new, old, hard, or soft—it doesn’t matter! 

 

Do I have to Apply to the Front and Back of Fencing? 

If the boards are thicker than 2×4 inches, we recommend applying to both sides to help speed up the application process. However, it’s not always completely necessary and you can still get a proper application without applying to both sides in most cases. 

 

Do I Need to Get Underneath My Deck to Apply? 

Like with the question above, ideally, you’d apply to both sides if the chosen wood is thicker than 2×4 inches. Again, though, you can usually get a proper application without applying to both sides. 

 

Should I Use Cedarshield Before Starting My Woodworking Project? 

That’s a great and very popular use for Cedarshield! It’s a highly effective way to strengthen and protect your wooden projects right from the get-go. 

 

Can I Use this on Furniture, like Outdoor Seating, Dining Tables, and Cabinets?

Absolutely! If it’s wood, Cedarshield will help strengthen and protect the item from rot, decay, moisture damage, cracking, warping, pests, and more. 

 

Can I Use this on Painted, Stained, or Otherwise Treated Wood

You sure can. For the very best results however, we suggest sanding down the wood first and removing any other debris or dirt that might have accumulated on the surface.

 

How Long Do I Have to Wait Before Painting or Staining?

It’s best to wait approximately 72 hours after your final Cedarshield application before using paints or stains. 

 

Is it Safe for Garden Boxes/ Raised Garden Beds?

Yep! And it’s one of our fav uses for Cedarshield. No need to worry—Cedarshield will not leach harmful chemicals into your soil or plant life after application. 

 

What Happens if It Gets on My Grass?

You’ll want to do your best to avoid getting it on grass and other non-wood surfaces. Depending on the amount of overspray, Cedarshield can be harmful to plant life. 

 

What is the Difference Between Cedarshield and Cedarshield 4X?

Essentially, Cedarshield 4X is more of a surface sealant that provides UV protection whereas classic Cedarshield is an overall wood preservative that seeps into the wood, removing all moisture and strengthening it against cracking, warping, moisture, and pest damage. 

 

Is Cedarshield a One-And-Done Treatment? 

In most cases, yes! For larger projects with especially thick wood, reapplication may be necessary after 5-7 years. 

 

Will it Kill Damaging Bugs like Carpenter Ants, Carpenter Bees, Termites, and Powderpost Beetles?

Although it’s not designed for that purpose and we have not done testing to confirm it, in our customers’ and our own personal experience, Cedarshield will kill any damaging bugs that are currently inside the wood during application. After application, these pests will no longer be attracted to the wood either.

 

Will it Harm Metal if There’s Overspray?

Although you’ll want to avoid spraying any non-wooden surfaces with Cedarshield, this product is not known to damage metal. 

 

Will it Leach Anything Toxic into the Environment?

Nope! Once dry and fully cured, Cedarshield is safe for our planet, families, and pets. 

 

If It Rains Shortly After Application, Will I Need to Apply Again Before Staining or Sealing My Deck?

Nope! As long as it’s been 72 hours since your final Cedarshield application, rain will present no issue whatsoever. 

 

Do I Need to Wear Protective Equipment When Applying?

Your safety is always our top priority. Just to be careful, we recommend wearing gloves, some type of face mask, and applying in an area with sufficient ventilation, preferably outside. Avoid skin and eye contact, too. 

 

How Do I Store It?

If you store Cedarshield in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight, it will last you many years.

 

 

 

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